Caring for your Dwarf Netherland

Queen B Bunny Care

I'd like to be the first to welcome home your new edition to your family.

Caring for Netherland Dwarf rabbits is similar to the care you'd provide for any rabbit. However, such a small breed is usually a bit more delicate, so it's important to take special care of your Netherland to keep them as healthy as possible.

History

The Netherland Dwarf is a very well known pet and exhibition rabbit. Introduced into the UK in 1950, the Netherland Dwarf was originally developed in Holland from the Polish rabbit. The Netherland Dwarf is a very small rabbit, weighing no more than 1.13kg (2.5lb). Its appearance is compact with a full chest, wide shoulders, round head and eyes with erect ears.

Behaviour

Their cute appearance and size appeals to many pet owners but as a small rabbit the Netherland Dwarf requires regular handling when young to avoid problems associated with nervousness (including aggression) so plenty of love needs to be given and they will be quite happy to sit for it if you do, forming a close bond with you . Perhaps not the best breed for young children (7+ ideal) as they can kick or scratch is handled the wrong way. Being social is a part of their makeup. They need interaction with their owners or other rabbits to be happy, being left on their own for long periods of time can cause them to feel very lonely.

They are remarkable pets and can be litter trained (see below), they also respond well to gentle training (try a clicker) and can be trained to do tricks.

If your'e planing on having more than one bunny please know that bucks can be territorial with other bucks if they over 12 weeks old and not raised together. It's easiest if bunnies are kept together from birth, but if less than 12 weeks old, will usually live together happily. With proper care, rabbits can live 8-10 years!

Varieties

White, Black, Blue, Brown, Lilac,

Shaded (Sable, Smoke Pearl, Seal Point, Tortoiseshell),

Agouti- meaning bands of colour on on each hair (Blue, Opal, Lynx, Chinchilla, Squirrel, Brown-Gray), Tan (Tan, Foxes, Sable Marten, Otter), Orange, Fawn, Steel, Himalayan

Desexing

You know the saying "breed like rabbits?" There's a reason for that expression. Your loveable pets are capable of having a kit (litter) every month if you don't desex them. Not only is it not healthy for the doe to give birth that often (mine is every 3) you will end up with a serious problem on your hands. You can have your bunny sprayed or neutered from 4-6 months of age, this is when it hits sexual maturity. With a buck (male) you will be able to tell its ready by the presence of testicles, but a quick trip to the vet will let you know if unsure.

Litter Training

Bunnies usually take well to litter training, especially if their owner can be a little flexible. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this by setting up a litter tray. Suitable litter is needed, your bunny will sometimes like to lay in the litter box and sometimes even nibble the litter. So something safe and absorbent is necessary.

DO NOT USE clay or clumping litters, Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are best. I personally use 'Care Fresh Complete- natural paper bedding' which has 10 day oder control, and is 3 times more absorbent than shavings.

I also like to keep my bedding and litter tray different so they end up knowing the difference. For bedding I use oaten hay and shavings (NOT PINE OR CEDER) as the aroma can be fatal for rabbits.

Housing

Bunnies thrive on an indoor lifestyle and are the perfect pet option for those who live in an apartment or home with little or no yard space. Netherland Dwarf bunnies are one of the smallest breeds of rabbits, however they still need plenty of room to live. I recommend a larger cage size of 4 x 2 x 2 feet, which offers more room for exercise. You may choose a cage with a wire or solid bottom, just as long as you make sure there's an area where the bunny can be off the wire to rest their feet. The spacing on a wire bottom should be no more than 1/4 inch between bars. Outdoor hutches typically provide a completely enclosed area where the rabbit can enjoy the grass, as well as a raised house where the rabbit can go inside for more protection.

When my little guys aren't free roaming in the backyard or inside I love my 'Omlet' Eglu Go Rabbit hutches as they have a run so they can still eat grass while kept secure (you can just get the Eglu without the run for indoors). I like that they are well insulated and are made of strong plastic and keeping the Eglu Go Hutch in order is easy. This rabbit house has wipe-clean surfaces and a slide-out bedding tray to make it easy to clean, and, made from energy-efficient polymers, it never needs to be treated. It is a hygienic home for your pets, naturally weather resistant, and at the end of its life it can be recycled. Timber hutches I find don't hold up very well as the urine is quite acidic and the wood absorbs it lifting the wood not to mention the smell.

I suggest a non-absorbent lining if you a planing on a timber hutch and if you choose a solid bottom cage, your Netherland should be litter box trained. Be sure to only use safe rabbit friendly cleaners. This should be done at least once a week, I suggest making a schedule so it is less of a chore and becomes a part of your or your little ones routine.

The rabbit's cage should be kept in an area of the house that isn't susceptible to drafts. If your bunny is going to be kept outside, which isn't the best option for this small breed in winter unless has a insulated, enclosed hutch to protect them from the elements, as well as plenty of hay to nest in and stay warm.

Netherlands can also succumb to heat stroke very easily so also plan to locate the cage in an area where it will have shade from direct sun, and put a frozen two-litre bottle of water in the cage on really hot days to help cool the environment. Check and refresh your pet's water bottle several times a day.

Diet

a rabbit's diet should consist of pellets, fresh hay, clean water, and fresh vegetables. However, that diet varies by age, so it's crucial to feed age-appropriate foods in order to avoid stressing your pet's digestive system.

Birth to Four Months- A Netherland kit nurses from their mother for their first three weeks of life. By 4 weeks old, they can begin nibbling small amounts of alfalfa pellets, as well as a bit of loose alfalfa, grass and pre-washed baby leaf blend. By about seven weeks of age, they will wean from their mother and their digestive system has matured enough to begin introducing vegetables. Four to Seven Months At this age, you can begin introducing a small amount of vegetables into your pet's diet, but it's important to only introduce one type of vegetable at a time. Only offer about a teaspoon's worth so you don't upset his digestive system. A little Netherland's digestive tract, like all rabbits, is quite delicate, and sudden changes can lead to diarrhoea and, in the worst case scenario, death. Organic produce is safest and you should wash these foods before serving them to you pet.

Safe vegetables and greens include, but are not limited to:

Beet tops, cos, romaine and rocket lettuce, radicchio, or other dark-coloured or purple-coloured lettuces (NOT ICEBERG), bok choy, silverbeet, endive, small amount of broccoli, cauliflower leaves, celery (especially the leaves), snow peas, brussel sprouts, spinach leaves, basil, mint, parsley, coriander, small amount of kale and of corse.... carrots and carrot tops.

Keep Fruits to a Minimum! A few fruits may also be introduced when they're older, but use them as treats and offer them sparingly. A teaspoon-size serving of apple or a thin slice of banana is more than enough. Follow the same plan for introducing fruit as recommended for vegetables, and watch to see if they upset your pet's digestive system.

A Netherland Dwarf adult diet should receive approximately:one-eighth cup per pound of body weight. Unlimited fresh timothy/oaten hay. Unlimited fresh water. Limited amounts of fresh vegetables I give our rabbits a handful of pre-washed baby leaf blends like spinach and kale, carrots morning and night and use herbs as daily treats.

WARNING: Some food are harmful to bunnies and can cause illness.

Iceberg lettuce, Cabbage, Rhubarb, Alfalfa, Potato peel, Raw beans, Corn, Grains, nuts or seeds, Bread, Biscuits, Cereal, Chocolates or sweets, Processed sugars, Garden plants, Clover hay.

Use an appropriate feeder and waterer. The best feeder is one that attaches to the cage wall so the food won't be tipped over into the bedding (use ceramic if using a bowl). Water bottles are preferable to open crocks because they prevent the water from becoming spilled or fouled with bedding or droppings.

Health

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits should receive annual checkups with regular veterinary care can help you spot problems before they grow out of control. Bunnies should be vaccinated against Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus (previously known as Rabbit Calicivirus) from 4 weeks of age and then every 6 months to maintain immunity throughout life. Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus and Myxomatosis are diseases that have been introduced in Australia to help control the wild rabbit population. Whilst there are no vaccines available to prevent myxomatosis, rabbits should be vaccinated against Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus. This will protect it from this disease for 10 to 12 months at which time your rabbit will need another vaccination. Myxomatosis is caused by the myxoma virus, a poxvirus spread between rabbits by close contact and biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. The virus causes swelling and discharge from the eyes, nose and anogenital region of infected rabbits. Most rabbits die within 10-14 days of infection however highly virulent strains of the myxoma virus may cause death before the usual signs of infection have appeared. There are two vaccinations against myxomatosis, however these are not available in Australia yet. Thus the only way to prevent infection is to protect your pet rabbits from biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. Put mosquito netting around your rabbit’s hutch or keep your rabbits indoors. If your rabbits are allowed to exercise outside avoid letting them out in the early morning or late afternoon when more mosquitoes are more numerous. You can use Revolution (Selamectin) or Advantage (Imidocloprid) for flea prevention, but you must check first with your vet for dosages. Do not use Frontline (Fipronil) as this has been associated with severe adverse reactions in rabbits. Your bunny has been wormed already.

Grooming

Netherland Dwarf Rabbits don't need a lot of grooming since they keep themselves clean. However, when they're going through a period of shedding, they might appreciate a little help removing excess fur. Use a soft brush or comb and brush in the natural direction of the rabbit's fur. You can also take this opportunity to check for parasites.

The nails on a Netherland Dwarf will need to be trimmed regularly. You can do this yourself using a cat claw trimmer to trim just the nail tips, or your vet can perform the task for you. Netherland's are like cats, in that they do groom themselves, but if for some reason it does need a bath, use special rabbit shampoo you can get from the pet store.

Rabbits have teeth that continually grow hence overgrown incisors (front teeth) and molars (cheek teeth) can occur. We often see rabbits with overgrown teeth due to poor diet or hereditary factors. Spurs may form on their molar teeth if they are not worn down naturally by chewing roughage. Some rabbits need their teeth burred down regularly under anaesthetic if they suffer from spurs.

I home you enjoy your new member of your family as much as I enjoyed raising them.

xB

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